This article was originally published in BPM Magazine. Read the full version of the magazine here.
Unapologetically Different
Andrea Portelli is a member of the administrative sector of the University of Malta. Going by the alias of Citoyen Port, he is also a historybounder and the only regency-era clothes designer on the Island. Focused on the mid-18th to early 19th century, he tells us all about the process of designing a fashion piece, from paper to hanger, as well as his BPM throughout it. You can see him on the streets of Valletta, where he usually flaunts his meticulously designed garments. He has also just started his calligraphy business, Atelier de Port, which keeps to the historical accuracy of that era.
A historybounder is a person that incorporates historical fashion into their day-to-day lives. In a social context, you can never spot Andrea wearing ‘regular’ clothes. All of his pieces are designed according to his vision and objective.
Citoyen comes from the French word meaning ‘citizen’ – a practice done during the French Revolution as a way to remove social class prejudice, with the abolition of aristocratic titles. And Port is a nickname that has stuck since youth.
The designing process is a lengthy one, usually taking from 6-9 months per piece. Citoyen Port points out the ups and downs of such a creative journey, highlighting the rush and excitement that come along with sketches and silhouettes of a starting idea. As soon as questions such as occasion and season are answered, he sources all of the materials needed, sometimes from abroad, which makes the process longer. Whilst there are a variety of fabrics to choose from, he strives for 95% historical accuracy, free of synthetics or any materials which would take away from the piece’s originality. There are, however, stages of doubt in the process. There are moments of uncertainty regarding the size or materials, but in that case, he says, ‘I just stop and come back to it later again, more composed’.
Contrary to the high BPM that comes with designing clothes, the process of calligraphy is one of Citoyen Port’s low-BPM creative outlets. Something that started ‘on a whim’, as he says, the calligraphy business is another way to incorporate ‘the vibe of the regency-era lifestyle’ into his day-to-day life. Atelier de Port makes artwork with historically accurate materials, from the paper used to the wax seals and quill pens – all sourced from abroad.
The art of historybounding, however, comes with its own obstacles. Speaking passionately about the experience of being ‘unapologetically different’, Andrea expresses his disappointment with people’s ignorance when it comes to those who don’t necessarily ‘fit in’ with the rest. ‘People who want to express themselves differently in Malta are unfortunately met with ridicule, heckling, and shaming. People being themselves shouldn’t get s**t for it’. This is something which he claims to have experienced in various instances and from various age groups, and it’s not just a one-off. Whilst his close circle of friends have no issue with his different wardrobe choices, being in a wider social crowd is a different story – one that comes with being made fun of and possibly excluded.
Brushing aside the negativity from those who are unwilling to learn, Citoyen Port makes it known that one needs to have thick skin to lead this type of lifestyle. To anyone who wishes to stand out from the rest, he says: ‘If you’re not willing to get s**t for it, don’t do it, don’t be a hero. But if you do, then absolutely go for it. Life is too short to wear t-shirts and shorts’.
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